My Venice, by Diane von Furstenberg

This article is part of a new guide to Venice from FT Globetrotter

As the young bride of Prince Egon von Furstenberg, I first discovered the glamorous side of Venice through its palaces and balls and its famous film festival. It felt like a fairy tale. Over the decades, I have returned to Venice every year to always discover something new, and now I call it home.

For me, La Serenissima Venezia is a woman, a seductive muse, a courageous warrior, a scientist and a master of diplomacy and maritime power. But she is also a businesswoman. Venice is where commerce meets art; the ultimate caravanserai.

Her long life has spanned 1,600 years. Born a refugee and chased from the mainland by the Huns, she created a magical setting in the lagoon between islands and canals, building bridges and palaces, turning it all into a magnificent city. The Republic of Venice existed for a millennium and was a major power during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

Mass tourism and weather conditions have threatened her survival many times but she is still here, splendid and radiant.

There is nothing better than arriving in Venice and seeing her rise up from the sea in all her glory. From there, take my advice and visit some of my favourite places. I like to start with an early-morning walk to have the city to myself and to watch as the light changes throughout the day, until the most splendid sunset casts its particular shade of pink. Try not to set a demanding agenda. Instead, walk, get lost, discover your own favourite places and enjoy it all!

Fortuny + Chahan

Fondamenta San Biagio, 30133 Venice

A staircase with a golden carpet spiralling down to a pink and white marble-floored sitting room in the Fortuny townhouse recently redesigned by Chahan Minassian — Chahan Minassian recently redesigned the town house of Countess Elsie Lee Gozzi, who ran Fortuny from the late 1940s © Veronese

The original Fortuny factory where they still make the most beautiful fabric was built on the grounds of an ancient convent on the Giudecca, and the stunning private garden is one of the largest in Venice. Next to that is Fortuny + Chahan, a town house that was recently redesigned by interior designer Chahan Minassian for the Biennale and is open to the public by appointment. The Fortuny Museum is separate, in San Marco, and one should see that as well. Website; Directions

Rizzardini

Campiello dei Meloni 1415, 30125 Venice

This little jewel box of a pastry shop is the perfect place to start the day in Venice. Order a coffee and croissant and linger at the counter. Directions

Galleria dell’Accademia

Calle della Carità, 1050, 30123 Venice

A wonderful museum with masterpieces of Venetian painting from the 14th up to the 19th century. It also has the best bookstore. It is situated in Dorsoduro, which is my neighbourhood. Just around the corner is my favourite place to walk in the evenings, along the Zattere, where you will see the most amazing sunsets. Website; Directions

Palazzo Ducale

Piazza San Marco, 30124 Venice

The cream-stoned, Gothic facade of the Doge’s Palace, with the Lagoon in the foreground — ‘A masterclass in Venetian history’: the Doge’s Palace © Getty Images/iStockphoto

One should not miss visiting San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace). A spectacular example of Gothic architecture, it was the residence of the Doge at the height of the Republic and is a masterclass in Venetian history. You can visit not only the Doge’s apartments and the one-time seat of the government, but also its courtrooms and prisons, and, of course, the marvellous Golden Staircase. Website; Directions

Palwer

Salizada San Samuele 3151, 30124 Venice

Alessandro Palwer is a jewellery designer based in Venice. Trained as a sculptor, he creates bold statement pieces that stand the test of time. His shop is tucked away on a relatively quiet street in San Marco. Website; Directions

Missiaglia 1846

Dorsoduro 586, 30126 Venice

A black and white photograph of the entrance to a garden leading to Missiaglia 1846 — . . . whose artisans ‘are committed to the old ways of Venice and the highest craftsmanship’

One of the oldest family businesses in Europe, Missiaglia 1846 is a jewellery maker whose artisans are committed to the old ways of Venice and the highest craftsmanship. Their silverware collection is so unique: I have their Artichoke pepper grinder and salt shaker — a lovely pair and the perfect gift for a gracious host. Website; Directions

Labirinto Borges

All of the great painters have loved Venice and all of the great writers have loved Venice, including Jorge Luis Borges. For the 25th anniversary of his death, the Fondazione Giorgio Cini on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore created the most amazing labyrinth out of more than 3,000 boxwood plants. The result is a lovely excuse to get lost. Website; Directions

Quadri

Piazza San Marco 123, 30124 Venice

A selection of dishes from the tasting menu at Quadri — A selection of dishes from Quadri’s tasting menu

You will feel like you have stepped back time in this stunning restaurant on Piazza San Marco in a building that was once occupied by the Venetian government. In 2018 it was reimagined by Philippe Starck and the Alajmo brothers but is still a classic beauty. The menu is full of fresh seafood and modern interpretations of traditional favourites. Website; Directions

Hostaria Bacanera

Campiello de la Cason 4506, 30121 Venice

This traditional osteria in Cannaregio is so charming and the food is delicious — mostly fresh fish and vegetables from the market, so the menu is always changing. It’s the perfect place to end a spectacular day in Venice. Also in Cannaregio, you will find the Jewish Ghetto with its famous Campo del Ghetto Novo. Website; Directions

Laguna B

Dorsoduro 3276, 30123 Venice

A blond-wood table on which stand three small and colourful glasses, in front of a white wall on which a covered grey shelf contains a row of colourful and patterened glass vessels at Laguna B — Von Furstenberg likes Laguna B’s ‘playful but sophisticated’ glassware © Enrico Fiorese

In this tiny shop in Dorsoduro, the late glass designer Marie Brandolini achieved a contemporary spin on traditional Murano glass. It is now run by her son Marcantonio [whose father was a cousin of Prince Egon von Furstenberg]. The pieces are playful but sophisticated. Website; Directions

Angelo Orsoni’s Colour Library

Calle dei Vedei 1045A, 30121 Venice

Details of the colour library of the founder of Fornace Orsini: rows of shelves in which are lined pigment samples in all colours — Hues who: the colour library of the founder of Fornace Orsini © Courtesy of Orsoni Venezia 1888

Orsoni was a master of crystal and painted glass who founded Fornace Orsoni in 1888. After presenting his large collection of enamel and gold mosaic tiles in Paris, he became famous for sourcing large-scale works of art all over Europe. The Colour Library tells the story of the family, the furnace and more than 3,500 colour tones. It is fascinating. You must first become a member of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection to go on a guided tour. Website; Directions

Palazzo Grimani and Ca’ d’Oro Museums

Rugagiuffa 4858, 30122 venice, and Calle Ca’ d’Oro 3934, 30121 Venice

Classical sculptures and busts of men and women lining the grey-blue stone walls of a room in the Palazzo Grimani. On the floor is a fan-shaped brown and white mosaic — The Palazzo Grimani is known for its collection of classical sculptures © Awakening/Alamy

Both belong to the Italian Ministry of Culture: the first is famous for Giovanni Grimani’s collection of classical sculptures and the second for the amazing Gothic facade and paintings such as “Saint Sebastian” by Mantegna. The Venetian Heritage Foundation is supporting both of these museums and I am proud to be the international ambassador for this wonderful organisation. Museo di Palazzo Grimani: Website; Directions. Ca’ d’Oro: Website; Directions

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